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COMPARISON OF SELECTED RECOVERY PROTOCOLS ON MAXIMAL GRIP STRENGTH FOLLOWING SIMULATED ROCK-CLIMBING STATIC HANG TIME

Abstract

Antonio Diaz Perez and Bert H. Jacobson

Oklahoma State University, Stillwater, OK

There has been an increased interest in determining the best method for intermittent, short duration recovery to reduce forearm pump (fatigue) during rock-climbing and other grip strength related sports. This fatigue is largely caused by blood flow occlusion in the muscles due to the continuing use of the finger flexors thus causing a decrease in grip performance. PURPOSE: The purpose of this study was to compare three different forms of rapid forearm recovery methods between bouts of static finger flexion gripping to volitional exhaustion. METHODS: Forty-four participants (15 males & 29 females) participated in the study. Participants were randomly divided into the following three groups: (1) passive recovery, (2) arm dangle and shake out, and (3) finger/wrist static extension stretch. After a three-minute warmup and familiarization session, pre-test grip strength and pre-test max hang time were recorded. The participants performed one of the three protocols in random order and then post-test grip strength and post-test max hang time were recorded. This was repeated three times separated by 4-5 days until all protocols were performed by the participants. RESULTS: A significant difference (p0.05) among group pre-test grip strength and no significant differences (p>0.05) from pre to post grip assessments for any of the conditions. However, the shake and stretch conditions recorded slightly larger post-test deficits (-13.3% and -13.1%) respectively than the rest condition (-8.1%). For maximal hang time, there were no significant differences (p>0.05) found among conditions. However, each condition registered significant pre to post-test changes (pCONCLUSION: Passive rest protocol resulted in slightly less grip strength fatigue following maximal hang time. Post-test hang time was not affected by any of the conditions. The results suggest that none of the recovery protocols used in this study are superior in reducing blood flow occlusion and reducing muscle fatigue.

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